Birch

If there was an award for the highest proportion of glowing reviews in the shortest period of time, I think Birch restaurant in Southville would probably take home the prize. In the few short weeks since they have opened, I have seen countless reviews highlighting just what a star of a place it is. Bristol folk are lining up to get a piece of the action.

So in order to break with tradition, I am going to start my review with the things I didn't like about Birch. The negatives of my meal and the little niggling annoyances I haven’t been able to let go. So here goes…

On the day I went, my birthday in fact, it was raining. Like end of days raining. And my hair got wet, and lost some of its oomph.

Okay, now that’s the negatives dealt with. Let’s talk about the rest...

The fact is that I came out of Birch with absolutely nothing to moan about. Not even a hint of a grumble. From start to finish I had one of the best meals I have ever had and despite wanting to make my mark amongst the food writers of Bristol, I must concur. Consider this me glowing.

The restaurant is small. Touches of colour come from the painted counter and bottles which adorn the high shelf that spans the room. On a Thursday evening it was full to the brim. I overheard one of the owners turn down a booking for eight because it would overwhelm the atmosphere for the other diners. It’s nice to see a restaurant care so much about their customers’ experience.


Well, it was nice until I realised my family, all together, make an eight. But who needs family eh?

We began with some bottles of local beer and a plate of piping hot sage and anchovy fritters. Boy did they put me in a good mood straightaway. Two sage leaves, freshly picked from their garden, wrapped around a huge salty anchovy fillet and then deep fried. Simple flavours, simply delicious.

A starter of mackerel with gooseberries and fresh garden peas also stood out. It shouted summer in a way that the pounding rain outside certainly did not.

My dining companion opted for the brawn. A brave choice for those who know what it is. For those that don’t, maybe it’s better it stays that way. All jelly and gross bits, pressed together into a delicious terrine served with a fresh radish salad. It’s a starter that seems to be putting them firmly on the map.

As we waited for our mains I looked over at the couple seated in the window. They had their sleeves rolled up and were tackling the special of the day; a whole spider crab. Had I been in a more adventurous mood (and wearing a top I didn’t mind staining) I would have gone for that. 

Instead I went for the Dorset rump beef served with cabbage. It was, essentially, the best piece of beef I have eaten in a long time. Perfectly seasoned and not overdone with accompaniments, it screamed elegance.

Unlike me who, inevitably, dropped some of it down my top anyway.

Pudding took me to somewhere I never thought I would intentionally go again; the land of the sherry trifle. Not in the dish exactly, but in the flavours. It was beautiful pink cherries with brown sugar ice-cream and tipsy cake. I normally am a hater of alcohol in food in general but this worked. The bowl was finished before I even thought about offering some to my fellow diner. Maybe I'm a tipsy cake convert.

Our great meal ended with brilliant service and an extremely reasonable bill. In fact, the only thing Birch couldn’t do was improve the weather. But that doesn’t matter. It’s the perfect place to spend an evening, come rain or shine.

Birch is open Wednesday - Saturday from 6pm - 10pm